Q...
Can you recommend a plant that blooms early, likes a shady area and is deer
proof?
A...
That is a tall order but I think I have just the plant for you. The Lenten Rose or Hellebore. This plant depending on variety and weather condition blooms from January to May. Colors of bloom are often white, pink, chartreuse green, yellow, purple to black and variations thereof. If you can bear to pick them, they make a long lasting cut flower. The evergreen leathery foliage adds interest to the garden year round and makes a nice backdrop for spring bulbs. Hellebores are hardy and do well in a shady area. They are a joy to see at a time of year that can be cold and dreary! Deer and other wildlife avoid them. In fact, they rarely have any pest problems. Three popular varieties for this area are:
- H. foetidus (stinking hellebore)
- H. niger (Christmas rose)
- H. orientalis (Lenton rose)
You can start these plants from seed, which will take about three years to bloom or you can buy a few plants to get started and allow them to reseed.
Q...
Something is eating my bulbs, chewing on the bark of shrubs and small trees in my landscape, could this be moles? If so, how do I get rid of them?
A...
What a great question! Often, moles are thought to do vegetative damage when actually it is more likely voles. Moles are high energy little mammals, rarely seen by humans. They have tiny eyes, no external ears, strong legs with enlarged front feet used to glide with a swimming type motion thru the soil. A mole actively feeds day and night on 70-100% insects, grubs and earthworms. Moles can be useful as they play an important role in the management of soil and control of lawn-destroying grubs. They also aerate the soil and subsoil, making nutrients more available to plant roots. However if they become a problem, and you don’t have a cat or dog, trapping is most efficient means of removal.
Voles on the other hand are often referred to as meadow mice and are small rodents with stocky bodies, short legs and short tails. Voles feed on shoots of grasses and forbs (broadleaf plants) growing near runways and burrow openings during the growing season. In the winter, voles are more likely to eat tuber, bulbs, bark, rhizomes and seeds. To control bark damage, Mike Smith, of the Williamson County Extension Service, recommends keeping mulch at least 8”-12” away from the trunk of any tree or shrub, as voles will use the mulch to burrow in. This is especially important for fruit trees. He also tells me if there are no cats or snakes to naturally get rid of voles then try a rat type poison being very careful that family pets or other beneficial wildlife are not endangered. One way would be to place a heavy board or similar object with the poison under it where only voles would get to it. For more information be sure to pick up UT Publication PB1624 Managing Nuisance Animals and Associated Damage Around the Home, and/or SP293A Mole Control in Tennessee from your local Extension Service.
Q...
I have tried growing French Tarragon without much success. Is there another similar flavored herb that will grow here?
A...
Winter Tarragon, Mexican Marigold Mint, is just two other names for Tagetes Lucida. It has a fragrance and taste very similar to French Tarragon and can be substituted in any recipe calling for Tarragon. It is a bit stronger in flavor so adjust accordingly.
This herb is a favorite in my garden. It stands close to 2 feet in height and blooms lovely yellow-gold in October. At a time of year when many perennials have finished blooming, this herb is a cheery, welcome sight in the landscape.
Although it is tender perennial, it usually makes it thru our Tennessee winters. This plant is easy to propagate from cuttings in water or from division in spring. Harvest the plant before the first frost, cutting it back to a couple of inches from the ground. Hang drying produces a quality result.
Tagetes Lucida may be a bit of a challenge to find, I’m sure it will be available at the Bloom ‘n’ Garden Expo, April 7,8,9 2006 in Franklin, TN. For more information about the show, visit our web site: www.wcmga.net
Q...
Help! How do I get rid of Japanese beetles?
A...
Adult Japanese beetles emerge the end of May ready to eat from over 300 species of Ornamental Trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, small fruits and even vegetables! They do damage to flowers and foliage.
If you have a small yard, don’t use the trap bag method. This calls and traps the male beetle, which interrupts the reproduction cycle. Although this is great in theory, having thousands of beetles coming to the trap means they are also coming to your yard for dinner!
Organic control can be achieved with nematodes, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), and Bacillus popillae (Milky Spore). Nematodes are insect eating, microscopic parasitic roundworms who actively seek out grubs in the soil. They can be applied with any standard insecticide applicator. Bt is a naturally occurring soil bacterium typically used as a microbial insecticide. Use it as a spray on lawn and soil to kill the grubs. Milky Spore also kills the grubs of Japanese beetles by in gestation of the spores that you release into your turf. This process takes two –four years to be effective and is best if done in community-wide treatment plans.
Nemetodes, Bt and Milky Spore can be purchased at area lawn and garden shops and the local Co-ops.
Another reccommended method is a systemic insecticide containing the active ingredient Imidacloprid. Mixed according to directions and poured on the roots of Trees, shrubs and perennials, it is taken up through the roots into the foliage killing unsuspecting beetles when they take a bite. The plant material needs to be actively growing so May is a good time to apply. This application is good for one year and does not harm beneficial bugs. Although it is not an organic means of control it is very effective and environmentally friendly according to UT Entomologist David Cook of Davidson County Ag Extension Service.
For more information on Japanese Beetles pick up UT bulletin PB946 at your local UT Ag Extension Office.
Q...
I’m trying to garden in a small space, do you have any tips?
A...
Container gardening is a great way to do a lot of gardening in a small space, create incredible color and texture with minimal care. Recently at the Bloom ‘n’ Garden Expo, Dr. Rick Ludwig with Southern Living gave some tips that I think will get you well on your way:
1........Start with your container; choose something that compliments the architecture of your home. Something antique, a textured pot, or even a window box. Don’t be afraid to be creative with the container, just be sure it has good drainage.
2........Choose a potting soil mix that has vermiculate or pearlite in it. You can revamp a previous container by mixing half of the old soil with new potting soil. Add in some pelleted slow release fertilizer and you are ready to plant.
3........Now is the fun part, choosing the plants! Rick says to use a ”thriller”, a “filler” and a “spiller” or a spikie, a roundie and a droopie…in other words, use something tall and showy like a dwarf grass, or salvia. A “filler” would be a shorter type plant that is more rounded like petunia or begonia. A “spiller” is a plant that flows over the side of the pot, Marguite Sweet Potato Vine, Ivy or Creeping Jenny would be three to consider.
Be adventurous, besides annuals try perennials, vegetables, herbs or any combination of. Tomatoes with Arugula, Spicy Globe Basil and Creeping Thyme would be a culinary treat just outside your kitchen door. Plant a “thriller” or “spikie” plant in a separate 6”pot that can be changed out now and then to freshen up or change the look. Use plants with similar bloom colors and various leaf colors and textures for overall stunning results.
4..........Watering is an important aspect of container gardening. Be sure to water until it runs out the drainage holes, then, wait to water again until the plants start to wilt (not keel over). To help maintain moisture in your container garden Rick suggests using cotton roping (from an upholstery or craft store). Wind the roping a couple of times at the base (in the drainage pan), pull it up through the center of the container to the top, add soil. Every time you water, the roping will continue to wick the water from the drain pan up through the container keeping moisture content even. This works especially well with “strawberry pots”.
Q...
I keep planting Lavender each spring and it continues to die, any suggestions?
A...
That is so sad... I know how disappointing it can be! Middle Tennessee is a difficult place to grow lavender. It helps if you understand that it is a Mediterranean herb and grows in rocky soil without a lot of humidity, unlike here with humidity and heavy clay soil. Many times I have found that this plant actually drowns in the winter, where it gets very little warm weather and the roots are soggy. Anything you can do to improve drainage will help you to be successful growing this plant. A raised bed or plenty of stones, broken pieces of clay pots, etc placed in the hole before planting will make a huge difference. East or South exposure in the garden seems to work well too. Be sure you are planting a hardy variety, try Vera, Munstead, or Hidcote. I hope you will try growing this wonderful herb again, there is nothing like going to the garden and harvesting the flowers of Lavender!
Q...
I have noticed that my blue hydrangea has only bloomed 2 out of 5 years, it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Do I need to fertilize? Also, when it did bloom, they were mostly pink, why is that?
A....
There are four major categories of popular hydrangeas (hi-DRAIN-jah):
1..... MOPHEAD and LACECAP – hydrangea macrophylla - blooms on old wood, usually blue or pink in color (there is a white variety).
2........ ANNABELLE and family - hydrangea aboresiens - blooms on new wood, white or as they age chartreuse in color.
3......OAKLEAF - hydrangea quiercifolia - blooms on new wood, white and as they age turn a beautiful pink in color.
4........PEE GEE and family - hydrangea paniculata - blooms on new wood, usually white in color.
Your hydrangea being blue tells me you probably have a macrophylla. Listed below are four common problems for bloom failure:
1.......... Late spring frost ruins the developing bloom buds. If the variety is one that starts developing buds the fall previous on old wood (macrophyllas – mopheads and lacecaps) than even a slight late frost after a few warm days can inflict major damage to future blooms.
2.........Improper pruning can be a problem for the macrophyllas (mophead and lacecap) since they develop buds on last year’s growth (old wood). It is best to wait until late spring, and then remove only dead canes. With aboresiens (Annabelles), you can cut all the way back to the ground in the winter and they will come back with big beautiful blooms because they develop buds on new wood. Pruning is not a problem for quiercifoila (oakleaf) or paniculata (Pee Gee) as they produce blooms on new wood as well.
3............Too much shade will discourage blooms, all hydrangeas perfer morning sun with afternoon shade or dappled light all day. They will not do well under deciduous canopy. Some varieties will tolerate sun all day as long as moisture is sufficient. Remember to water extra if they are planted near or under trees that compete for the moisture.
4..........Too much nitrogen will give you gorgeous green leaves but no blooms.
Since your hydrangea gets morning sun, I would think your lack of blooms stems from late spring freezes or improper pruning. Something to consider is a new variety of hydrangea called Endless Summer, this hydrangea blooms on new and old wood making it almost foolproof in our area.
To insure blue blooms, you will need to change the ph of the soil around your hydrangea. This is easy to do by adding a couple of handfuls of Aluminum Sulfate at the time of planting and a handful around the base of the plant once a year.
Q...
With the cicadas coming soon, should I wait to plant trees and perennials?
Will they damage established landscape? I also have an outdoor wedding in June, do I need to worry about cicadas?
A...
According to UT bulletin #SP341-F (available at your local UT Ag Extention Service), the periodical 17 year Cicadas will be emerging between the first and second week of May, 2004. The adults will feed on sap from young trees and shrubs. The female cicadas cut into the underside of lateral branches about pencil size to lay their eggs. They will not bother most evergreen type trees or shrubs. Nor will they bother perennials or annuals.
They are a short lived nuisance, by the third week in June cicadas should be gone. (adult cicadas live 4-5 weeks). The male cicadas make the loudest sound in the insect world. David Cook, an Entomologist with Davidson County Ag Extension Service tells me they don’t feed on foliage, sting or carry any known diseases. Small valuable shrubs and trees may be covered with cheesecloth for protection from cicadas. Mr. Cook also recommends postponing any planting of trees or shrubs until fall just to be on the safe side.
Q...
What is the best way to control Japanese beetles?
A...
Adult Japanese beetles emerge the end of May ready to eat from over 300 species of Ornamental Trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, small fruits and even vegetables! They do damage to flowers and foliage.
If you have a small yard, you may not want to use the trap bag method. This calls and traps the male beetle which interrupts the reproduction cycle. Although this is great in theory, having thousands of beetles coming to the trap means they are also coming to your yard for dinner!
The best method is a systemic insecticide containing the active ingredient Imidacloprid. Mixed according to directions and poured on the roots of Trees, shrubs and perennials, it is taken up through the roots into the foliage killing unsuspecting beetles when they take a bite. The plant material needs to be actively growing so May is a good time to apply. This application is good for one year and does not harm beneficial bugs. Although it is not an organic means of control it is very effective and environmentally friendly according to UT Entomologist David Cook of Davidson County Ag Extension Service.
For more information on Japanese Beetles pick up UT bulletin PB946 at your local UT Ag Extension Office.
Q...
Are there any new or not so well known plants that do well in our area that would be a nice addition to the garden?
A...
I’m always on the look out for interesting new or under used plants for the
Garden. I planted Limelight hydrangea last fall and can’t wait to see what it is going to do. It should bloom every year a lovely white bloom with having to adjust the ph of the soil or worrying about late spring frosts. It also can take a good bit of sun...a huge bonus for this typical shade-loving shrub. I’ll let you know this fall how she did in my garden. In the meantime give it a try.
I’m currently looking for a new Lilac called Syringa Bailina’. This plant is a petite lilac that is resistant to powdery mildew. Unfortunately that is usually the problem with growing lilacs in the south. Our hot humid summers encourage powdery mildew making lilacs a real eye sore soon after they blossom. I always am looking for other plants to hide the lilacs for the summer season! This shrub should change all that. It grows 5-6 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide. It offers sweet smelling pale pink blossoms in spring and glossy green leaves in the summer. It is great for a small space, makes a lovely hedge and a nice foundation planting or specimen. If you are like me and have fond childhood memories of lilacs blooming outside of your bedroom window but get a little discouraged with our current varieties check this one out.
These are two to broaden your new garden plant palette...have fun!
Q...
What are the wildflowers along the interstates and where can you buy the seeds? Particularly the poppies?
A...
The beautiful wildflower patches ablaze with color in the median strip
of the Interstates here in Tennessee are planted in cooperation with
TDOT (Tennessee Dept. of Transportation). I inquired with Rod Bean
Of TDOT and he informed me that a majority of the wildflowers planted in this area are Red Poppies, two varieties of Cosmos Coreopsis, Bachelor Buttons and Black Eyed Susans.
Here are two sources that deal in bulk seed and/or have a specific mix
For our area of Middle Tennessee. Both have Red Poppy seed.
Q...
I was watching NPT’s Volunteer Gardener and they talked about a
Type of Redbud with dark purple-black leaves that does well here. Can you tell me the name of that tree?
A...
This particular Redbud is called Cercis Canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’.
Michael Dirr says in his book, Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, “A very handsome purple leaf type, the new foliage emerges a screaming, shimmering colored foliage and I do not rate too many purple leaf plants among my top 1000.”
The flowers are a rose-purple color. The Forest Pansy Redbud has a Rounded form and will reach a height of 20 – 25 feet. It is a tree that
Adds interest to the landscape year round.
Q...
I’ve just bought a home with a lawn that is sparse and mossy under the
Large trees in the back yard. Is there a grass seed that will thrive in spite of the shade? Will I need to add soil to the area near the tree roots or do something else to prepare it?
A...
Wow, moss under large trees sounds very appealing. Some might not
Think of that as a problem but rather a nice ground cover solution for an extremely shady area. However, if you really want a grass that might thrive or at least survive, try Creeping Red Fescue, Mike Smith tells me that it is the most shade tolerant of all the grasses. But be aware that it may be too shady for any grass. Never add more than two inches of soil to cover tree roots, as the tree needs oxygen from the roots to live.
Fall is the optimum time to seed a lawn with grass. Raking the area first allows for good seed/soil contact. Broadcast seed, cover with a mulch of straw and water for best results.
Q...
OK, Now it's your turn... Email Cindy and ask her your question. You can look for the answer back to you by email, or if it's a fun one, Right Here!
