Articles
Well, here you are, on the "Article" page. WELCOME! This is where I share all my innermost feelings with you the reader... Not! These are articles about - you guessed it, gardening. What a revelation!! Glad you are visiting. I hope you take time to read these "clippings" of ideas and thoughts about gardening. Enjoy!
~Cindy~
So Cindy, What have you been writing?
No need to be confused, in Tennessee you want to grow sweet potatoes. At a recent workshop where Norm Bright taught us all how to build a mini greenhouse several gardeners got into a discussion about sweet potatoes, there was a great deal of confusion so I promised I would get to the “root” of this and report back in the newsletter.
First of all, sweet potatoes are not yams, their vines produce roots, not tubers. You can grow sweet potatoes in the US in 90-150 days. Yams are tropical, come from the Caribbean and take 180-360 days to produce.
If that is not enough to convince you…remember back to Dr. Sam’s class on botany, sweet potato belongs to the dicotyledon plant group, whereas yams are monocotyledon. The flower of the sweet potato is monoecious, yam’s flower is dioecious. Even the appearance is different; the skin of the sweet potato thin and smooth, the yam has a rough and scaly skin. Sweet potatoes have a high content of beta-carotene, yams, very low.
So why do so many people call sweet potatoes yams? One theory is about 50 years ago Commercial growers in Louisiana wanted to give their sweet potatoes a unique product advantage so they would outsell those grown elsewhere. They decided to market them as “Louisiana Yams”… Makes sense now, right?
Propagation for sweet potatoes requires transplants/vine cuttings. Tuber pieces are used to reproduce yams. Many recommend buying rooted “slips” from mail-order catalogs or from a local garden center. But why would you want to do that when you can start sweet potatoes on your own?
There are basically two ways you can start your own sweet potato “slips”:
1...... 10 weeks prior to the frost-free date (ours is usually April 15th) lay a root (sweet potato) on it’s side in a large pot filled halfway with sand, cover the root with two inches of sand and moisten it. Set the pot where temperatures average 75-85 degrees F. When it begins to sprout, move the pot to a sunny windowsill or beneath fluorescent lights (Norm’s mini greenhouse would work great for starting slips). You may want to add some plant food to help the roots grow, as sand has no plant nutrient.
2...... Stand a root in a glass jar half-full of water and place it in a sunny, warm spot. Shoots will sprout and form fibrous roots. After danger of frost is past, pull the slips apart, preserving as many roots as possible.
A single root should give you at least a dozen rooted slips. Place slips about 14 inches apart in rows 2 ½ to four feet apart. Set slips deep enough to cover ¾ of the stem and water them promptly after transplanting to the garden. Raised beds with a sandy loam work best. Note: the vines lie flat on the ground and spread four feet across on dwarf cultivars and up to 10 feet across on standard cultivars.
The soil ph should be between 5.5 and 6.5. Add lime if your soil is too acid, but don’t try to bring alkaline soil down to 6.5 by adding sulfur or alum. Instead, work a two-inch layer of peat moss into the soil. Its naturally low PH will help buffer the excess calcium and magnesium ions.
Do not use a fertilizer with high nitrogen content, as it will grow a lovely vine but the roots will be small. Cottonseed meal, worked into the soil at the rate of about five pounds per 100 sq feet is a good fertilizer for sweet potatoes. Go easy on compost in your sweet potato bed; too much and the roots will develop a skin condition called, “scurf”.
Be sure to water during growing season, but reduce water in August or it may cause developing roots to crack. If nematodes cause problems, try companion planting with French marigolds.
Recommended standard varieties: Jewel, Beauregard, Centennial, and Georgia Jets. For smaller gardens try Bush Puerto Rico and Vardaman.
Now that you have a clear understanding of sweet potatoes and how to propagate them, I hope you try growing this delectable root in your garden!
Too Little to Late?
Are you worried your landscape is stressed? Are any of your deciduous trees or shrubs loosing their leaves early? Are brown leaves clinging to the branch(s) prematurely? It is always a concern when a valued landscape plant appears to be ailing. This year Middle Tennessee has been very dry. Some would say we are in a drought situation.
Sometimes a deciduous tree or shrub may drop their leaves early as a defense mechanism when stressed. Little or no rain can definitely stress plants! If the leaves of your tree(s) turn brown and cling to the branches early in the season then it is more of a concern according to Terri Barnes of GroWild in Fairview, TN. Terri recommends checking for signs of life by scratching (using a finger nail or small pocket knife) a branch to see if there is any green, if yes, everything is okay. If the branch is not green, work your way in to the trunk checking for green. If the branch closer to the trunk or the trunk is green, then perhaps just parts of the tree or shrub need to be pruned and a good time to water. However if there is no green even in the trunk then your tree or shrub has most likely succumbed to environmental stress, pests, or disease. If in doubt, an arborist or Ag Extension agent can help you determine the final fate of your landscape plant.
Terri advises watering in drought conditions by running a small trickle at tree or shrub base for a few hours once a week or so instead of a small amount of water daily. This will encourage roots to grow deep instead of coming to the soil surface. Adding root stimulator or Super Thrive (an all purpose plant food) available at local garden centers is also a good idea adds Ms. Barnes.
MY HYDRANGEA WON’T BLOOM
So many people have asked me why their hydrangea(s) are not blooming this year. Well, I noticed some of mine are not blooming either. So, I decided to investigate. It is important to establish which kind you have before you start your detective work.
There are four major categories of popular hydrangeas (hi-DRAIN-jah):
1.... MOPHEAD and LACECAP – hydrangea macrophylla - blooms on old wood, usually blue or pink in color (there is a white variety).
2.... ANNABELLE and family - hydrangea aboresiens - blooms on new wood, white or as they age chartreuse in color.
3..... OAKLEAF - hydrangea quiercifolia - blooms on new wood, white and as they age turn a beautiful pink in color.
4..... PEE GEE and family - hydrangea paniculata - blooms on new wood, usually white in color.
I’ve narrowed this to four common problems for bloom failure:
1.......Late spring frost ruins the developing bloom buds. If the variety is one that starts developing buds the fall previous on old wood (macrophyllas – mopheads and lacecaps) than even a slight late frost after a few warm days can inflict major damage to future blooms.
2.......Improper pruning can be a problem for the macrophyllas (mophead and lacecap) since they develop buds on last year’s growth (old wood). It is best to wait until late spring, and then remove only dead canes. With aboresiens (Anne belles), you can cut all the way back to the ground in the winter and they will come back with big beautiful blooms because they develop buds on new wood. Pruning is not a problem for quiercifoila (oakleaf) or paniculata (Pee Gee) as they produce blooms on new wood as well.
3.......Too much shade will discourage blooms, all hydrangeas perfer morning sun with afternoon shade or dappled light all day. They will not do well under deciduous canopy. Some varieties will tolerate sun all day as long as moisture is sufficient. Remember to water extra if they are planted near or under trees that compete for the moisture.
4.........Too much nitrogen will give you gorgeous green leaves but no blooms.
I hope this information is helpful and answers any questions about blooming failure. Be sure to buy hydrangeas that are hardy in this area – zone 6 and that are in bloom at time of purchase. It often happens that tags get mixed up at the nursery. With our hot and cold springs, it may take a little maneuvering to find just the right spot for some hydrangeas but the rewards far outweigh time spent. PH is another facet of hydrangeas, which affect color, once we get big beautiful blooms, then we can worry about the color!
A quick note on climbing hydrangeas, I have been told by nursery growers that the Asian varieties take a good three years before they really take off so don’t be discouraged if your climber looks to be sitting still. I bought a native climber from Growild this spring on a MG visit. It is a Decumaria Barbara and I understand it to be and am anxious to see if it is a faster grower.
Plan for Spring Planting
It’s almost here...spring! Oh, so you thought it was spring. After all, daffodils are out in mass, tulips are well on their way to majestic blooms, birds are reckless with their endeavors to find love, honeybees are out collecting pollen and even the neighbors are mowing the grass. The local garden centers are anticipating an early spring and tempting us with plants galore. I can see where one could easily be confused.
Let me bring you back to gardening reality... we live in Middle Tennessee. That means we are blessed to have four fairly equal seasons and a few surprises when it comes to Mother Nature and the weatherman. The ole timers had sayings to cover these phenomena like, if March “comes in like a lamb it will go out like a lion” and later cold snaps they would call “Blackberry Winter” or “Dogwood Winter”. In other words, just when things are getting pretty and we are getting mighty proud of our garden blooms, a frosty night blows in from who knows where (Yankee or hockey country most likely) and we get our garden attitudes adjusted.
There is hope...be patient, and repeat after me, “I will not plant any frost tender perennial, annual or herb before April 15th that I am not willing to replace without grumbling”. Remember, we live in Zone 6b and our last frost is usually the middle of April.
Okay, now that we have established that, be a good plant nut and get out there and help keep the nursery economy thriving! I didn’t say you couldn’t buy plants, just keep them warm, watered and comfortable until it is time to move them to their final destination, your garden. The garage or protected screened in porch (anywhere where they get some sun and won’t freeze in their sleep) should work fine. Or, if you are lazy and sometimes forgetful like me, let someone else care for the plants until April when you can purchase, take home and plant immediately. So many choices!
Until next time - Cindy
Think Fall and Trees
My neighbor Amanda Luthy (a fellow mg) sent me the poem below this article and I thought it was lovely and so appropriate for this time of year. Fall is the best time to plant trees. Of course being Master Gardeners you all already know this. However, in preparation for a garden talk for some residents of Habitat for Humanity I came across these great publications at our local extension office that may be helpful to all of us:
1. Plant the Right Tree in the Right Place – UT Publication SP 511
2. Native Trees for Tennessee – UT Publication SP 515
3. Small Trees for Fall Spendor – UT Publicaton SP 514
4. Small Flowering Trees for Tennessee Landscapes –
UT Publication SP 513
5. Urban Trees for Wildlife – UT Publication SP 530
In the past couple of years we have lost eight and ½ trees on our property (lost the top out of a Tulip Poplar this summer). My son Trevor tells me, “Just face it mom, trees don’t like to grow in your yard”. He says this each time he has to come to my rescue with the chainsaw. I was getting a bit discouraged but after reading the above publications I’ve decided that my tree loss is just an opportunity to broaden my horizons and plant new, exciting trees. I am imagining a Paperbark Maple with cinnamon colored exfoliating bark – what winter interest in the garden! I’ve been reading about Paw Paw trees, why not plant something that is native and produces delicious fruit for me, and my critter friends? Nothing beats the crimson red foliage of a native Blackgum tree this time of year. Bob Mund (another fellow mg) brought me some juicy ripe figs from his Fig tree - why not challenge myself ?
PLANT A TREE
A poem by: Lucy Larcom (1826-1893)
He who plants a tree,--
Plants a hope.
Rootlets up through fibres blindly grope;
Leaves unfold into horizons free.
So man's life must climb
From the clods of time
Unto heavens sublime.
Canst thou prophesy, thou little tree,
What the glory of thy boughs shall be?
He who plants a tree,--
Plants a joy;
Plants a comfort that will never cloy;
Every day a fresh reality,
Beautiful and strong.
To whose shelter throng
Creatures blithe with song.
If thou couldst but know, thou happy tree,
Of the bliss that shall inhabit thee!
He who plants a tree, --
He plants peace.
Under its green curtains jargons cease.
Leaf and zephyr murmur soothingly;
Shadows soft with sleep
Down tired eyelids creep,
Balm of slumber deep.
Never hast thou dreamed, thou blessed tree,
Of the benediction thou shalt be.
He who plants a tree, --
He plants youth;
Vigor won for centuries in sooth;
Life of time, that hints eternity!
Boughs their strength uprear;
New shoots, every year,
On old growths appear;
Thou shalt teach the ages, sturdy tree,
Youth of soul is immortality.
He who plants a tree, --
He plants love,
Tents of coolness spreading out above
Wayfarers he may not live to see.
Gifts that grow are best;
Hands that bless are blest;
Plant! life does the rest!
Heaven and earth help him who plants a tree,
And his work its own reward shall be.
The Dirt on Soil
Spring is in the air...and a gardener’s thoughts turn to dirt, well soil actually as my ole college professor would remind us. “Dirt is what you get under your nails, here at UT we study soil”, he would say. We gardeners look for every opportunity to get our hands covered with the stuff. It is therapy for the soul; the aroma of fresh soil released into the air as we dig is exhilarating. It is also exercise, which one realizes later, after digging in the dirt for any length of time. I usually hurt in places I didn’t know I had muscles, but after a few digging sessions this too passes and I get back to the big strong farm girl that my husband married!
Soil talk need not be boring if you remember that it is the foundation to any garden. In fact soil is probably the most important ingredient to a successful, healthy gardening experience. It is worth the extra effort, patience, time and $$ to be sure it is right before planting anything. By starting with the proper soil, many problems like insect damage and plant diseases can be avoided, giving you a beautiful, lush, productive garden.
Composition of soil should be half solid material and half open or pore space with living organisms (that’s right, soil is alive!), decaying matter and minerals thrown in for good measure. Sound complicated? Not at all! Think like a plant, in order to be healthy the roots need to be able to penetrate the soil and go deep enough to find good moisture and take up needed nutrients.
DeWayne Perry, UT extension agent/soil specialist of Williamson County tells me that soil is all about physical structure and content. Now this is the fun part, become a soil sleuth... What is your soil made of? Is it loose, friable and rich in organic material? Does it drain well after a rain or do you notice that your plants wilt soon after a rain and require additional watering? Has your soil been compacted and is hard as a brick? Do you have a new home and realize the top layer of your soil has been removed and no one left a map to tell you where it went?
Next, Find out if your soil is fertile and the pH level by taking a soil test. Your local Ag Extension Office can help you with this. It is simple and in a few days you will get a report that tells you the available levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, minerals and pH levels. This report also recommends amendments to add if needed.
Okay, you have analyzed your soil composition and found out you have perfect, wonderful rich, fluffy, drainable soil. No? Not to worry, we can’t always choose the perfect soil situation in which to garden but we can work with it to make it productive by amending. Armed with your type of soil knowledge and soil test you are ready to get to work. If you are reading this and wishing you could have done something before your garden was planted, it’s all right, test your soil and add amendments now. It will just be more time consuming to work around established plants, but they will love you for it!
Organic matter is the number one recommendation to help improve just about any soil condition. Compost would be my all around choice as it alive with microorganisms, provides nutrients (a natural fertilizer), drainage, texture to retain moisture and benefit root growth. Add a one to two inch layer and work in to your current soil. It also is great to use as mulch. If you have the brick-type,
compacted soil you may want to build raised beds and fill with compost or a soil product.
Be creative and be kind to your dirt, it will be the beginning of something great!
One source for compost is The Compost Farm of Franklin. They sell compost in bags or bulk and will deliver.
www.compostfarm.com/
Prune the right way at the right time for better results
It was a warm, sunny day. I was walking through a garden, admiring the beautiful, green, lush new spring growth of the trees and shrubs. Suddenly, to my horror, flowering and evergreen shrubs were running for their lives as a gas-powered hedge trimmer was in close pursuit shearing off everything in sight. I awoke in a cold sweat, thinking those poor innocent shrubs ... they didn’t stand a chance, if only the trimmer had some basic shrub pruning guidelines, perhaps my dream could have had a happy ending instead of turning into the Chainsaw Massacre nightmare!
I don’t understand the need some feel to make every shrub into the shape of a ball, square or triangle. The good Lord designed shrubs to have certain shapes and forms naturally. Unless you are a geometry geek, try to lighten up on the heavy-handed shearing. If a hedge is the look you are going for, great, shear away to keep it at a height you want or can reach and width that doesn’t take over. However, keep in mind a hedge is a far cry from a single, or series of balls that were once azaleas, yews, or forsythias!
If you think I’m poking fun, I am ... but please do me a favor, next time you feel the urge to crank up the gas hedgers or plug in the electric trimmers keep the following in mind:
1. If you can still identify the plant you are about to shear, trim or prune, think about the natural shape of it. Round, vase-like, fountain, mounding, spreading, weeping, upright, etc.
2. Instead of shearing, try using a pair of pruners and simply “shape” the shrub to its natural form by trimming out dead, or wayward branches, allowing the shrub to be itself.
3. Consider the area in which the shrub is planted, is it the right size for the space in the garden? Perhaps it has outgrown it’s space or isn’t the right form and moving or replacing the shrub is a good solution.
4. If you are just planting your garden, think about the space and shrub form before you plant so that major pruning or shearing isn’t necessary. This will save you time, money and aggravation in the future.
5. Timing is important... remove dead wood or perform minor pruning most anytime. Major or rejuvenation pruning is best done while shrub is dormant; late winter is best (usually March). If it blooms before July 1, prune immediately after bloom (if you prune later you may cut off the bloom buds for next year) if it blooms after July 1, prune in March. Finally, avoid heavy pruning in August and September. Cutting branches this late in the season could be an open invitation to insects and diseases.
Pick up a copy of UT Publication PB1619, Pruning Landscape Trees, Shrubs and Groundcovers at your local Ag Extension Office for more information.
If the neighbors can’t tell you just pruned your shrubs... congratulations, you have done a great job!
| | |
